Signature Oils and Butters

All oils and fats are complex compounds called triglycerides, a mixture of triglycerides with a different fatty acid attached. To further explain, an oil molecule is formed from one glycerin molecule and three fatty acid molecules. All fatty acid molecules are lipophinic and hydrophilic. Lipophilic means that it has a great affinity for oil. Hydrophilic means that it has a great affinity for water. The glycerin component of an oil or fat is an alcohol with three locations on its molecule where the hydrophilic molecule of the fatty acids attaches. The best oils contain essential fatty acids because these cannot be synthesized in the human body. The most important are linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids.

Argan Oil
The best for mature skin.

Borage (Borago officinalis)
Obtained from the seed of Borago officinalis, which grows abundantly in the Mediterranean region, Central Europe and Asia. Has an extremely high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important function in the body, especially the skin. Borage oil also has the highest known content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. These are great skin conditioners. They regulate the hydration of the skin and are humectants.

Carrot Oil
Rich in beta carotene, vitamins A & E and pro-vitamin A which help heal dry, chapped, cracked skin. Carrot oil helps to balance the moisture in our skin and conditions hair. Use at 5 -10% in products for repair and conditioning of skin or hair or at about 2-5% for general moisturizing effects. A good oil for the face.

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)
Expressed from coconut kernels. Coconut is solid at temperatures below 76 degrees. Also available in higher degree oils. This highly saturated fat contains twice the heavy fats as lard. Coconut oil is commonly used to promote lather in soaps and gel. Wonderfully emollient and has cooling properties. Available in various degrees.

The premium Coconut Oil with a fresh coconut odor like you just cracked it open. Virgin coconut oil is cold-pressed, pure, natural and unrefined. It is an excellent cooking oil that enhances the flavor of many foods and bakery items, such as biscuits, cookies, pastry, etc. It is fabulous in protein shakes, broiling, salads and popcorns. It is also one of the safest most effective natural body moisturizers available. Use it for aromatherapy in soap, body/massage oil, and shampoo moisturizer adding sheen and preventing dry hairs, or a nail and cuticle treatment.

As a saturated oil, it is extremely stable with an almost indefinite shelf life. It is uniquely rich in lauric fatty acid (>48%). According to scientific research as it appears to have significant anti-microbial, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, because of its contain up to 50% medium chain fatty acid.

Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)
Cold pressed from the nuts of the jojoba tree. The jojoba tree is cultivated in California, Arizona, Mexico and Israel. Jojoba is pronounced Ho Ho Ba. Native Americans have been using jojoba for centuries. The first record of jojoba is from 1701. Father Junipero Serrra found that Native Americans were using Jojoba to treat sores, cuts, burns, as a conditioner and for all over skin and hair treatments.

Jojoba is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax ester with a long unsaturated carbon chains. Chemically it resembles sperm whale oil or spermaceti oil. It was a popular ingredient in creams. In the 1970's the United States banned all sperm whale products because they were contributing to the extinction of sperm whales. In 1977 domestic commercial jojoba oil cultivation began because it is the natural substitute for spermaceti, which in other cases has been replaced by synthetic products. Jojoba esters are composed of straight chain alcohols. The acid and the alcohol portions have 20 or 22 carbon atoms and one unsaturated bond. It resembles human sebum; the natural coating our body produces to protect the skin and keeps it supple. Jojoba is skin therapy; our skin loses sebum with age, sun, wind, cold, and the environment. IT Contains protein, minerals and a waxy substance that mimics collagen. Jojoba is perfect for any skin type it has a large molecular structure. Jojoba can help dry or oily skin. If your skin has an over production of sebum jojoba oil will dissolve clogged pores and restore the skin to its natural pH balance. The reason jojoba oil works so well it actually penetrates the skin because it is accepted as sebum.

Although jojoba oil is very expensive it does have a long shelf life; it will never break down or go rancid. Jojoba is expensive because it can take up to 1200 nuts to get one pond of jojoba nuts, which have a 50% yield of oil. Because jojoba has very little scent it works as a wonderful natural perfume base. Jojoba is not greasy and absorbs right into the skin. JMC Technologies has conducted scientific research proving that jojoba can increase skin softness by up to 37%, it reduces superficial lines and wrinkles up to 25% upon application and up to 11% after 8 hours. Jojoba oil is hypoallergenic and pure.

Olive Oil (Olea europaea)
Obtained by crushing and pressing the fruit of the olive tree. The olive tree is native to the Mediterranean area, but can be grown in other tropical and warm areas. The olive tree is an evergreen. An important historic oil used extensively in ancient times. Highly nutritive and stable. Contains Olive Oil Polyphenols, protein, minerals and vitamins. Superior penetrating power. It is a yellow or greenish. Has acidic and antioxidant values. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables, which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Rose Hip Oil (Rosa mosqueta)
Extracted from ripened fruit of a hybrid, thorny, wild rosebush native to South American countries. A healing oil that is said to regenerate the skin and counteract the effects of aging. Rose hip oil is a rich source of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, is high in gamma linoliec acid (GLA) and vitamin C. Rose hip oil is often used in products made for stretch marks, burns, scars and mature dry skin. Rose hip seed oil is an emollient and strengthens the hair shaft. According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii)
Solid and comes from the natural fat obtained from the karite tree grown in West and Central Africa. Often referred to as karite butter. Shea butter is an emollient. It is extremely therapeutic, helping to heal cracked, aged and damaged skin. Its chemical constituents help to heal bruising and soreness. Shea butter penetrates the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth. It has vitamin A, E and is highly compatible with skin. Shea butter has a high content of unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters, which have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties and provide protection from the UV rays of the sun. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Shea butter is expeller pressed without use of solvents, making a lipid suitable for soaps, cosmetics and toiletries. Shea butter is renowned for is skin softening and moisture retaining ability. It melts at skin temperatures making it ideal for lip and body balms as well as bar soaps and lotions.

Shea Butter has often been heated 3 to 5 times in the manufacturing process. Each time the shea butter is heated it increases the chances of shea butter forming fat granules or crystals. When you use shea butter make sure that you add as little heat as possible. Make sure that the shea butter was not heated up by your supplier and has already arrived to you with crystals. It is best to heat the oils you are adding to the shea butter and then add the shea butter in small pieces off the heat. Whipping the shea butter with a hand held mixture, using as little heat as possible and cooling the shea butter as quickly as possible all help deter the problem. But there are no guarantees.